So I realized, I don't think I ever wrote about any of my trips to
Tottori, the prefecture north of Okayama where I was staying.
Surprisingly, (since Tottori is considered one of the least two
populated and one of the two most rural prefectures I believe?) I've
actually been there several times, though all different places.
One
of my friends from undergrad was posting on facebook on how she was on a
train to Tottori, and I couldn't help but feel nostalgic. I actually
really enjoyed Tottori, and kind of wish I had spent more time there
despite our initial assessment that it was totally the perfect weekend
trip spot. In theory, a weekend is enough to hit all the big "to do"
spots around Tottori city, especially if you're relying on public
transportation to get everywhere. That's not even including the other
larger city to the west, Yonago, and the area around it. And Mount
Daisen, one of the tallest (also ski-able in the winter) mountains in
the region, as well as
I'm-not-sure-if-it's-okayama-or-tottori-but-it's-pretty-much-in-between-Hirzuen,
where all the delicious milk products come from in my area (and beef --
also, I'm still referring to the region like I live there but I can't
help but feel like it's my adopted area still).
The big things to do in Tottori, anyways, are the sand
dunes and the sand sculptures when they have the exhibit there. I think
I always meant to post about those... and then forgot. I have those
pictures somewhere. Maybe that'll be my new summer project, for the
short duration of summer we have left. Upload pictures, finish reading
for my independent reading course so that my adviser doesn't think I'm a
slacker (so much for an actual summer vacation). Other than the sand
dunes... the curry. It's a weird thing to go to a prefecture for, kind
of, but Tottori has the highest
per capita consumption of curry
(keeping in mind as well, that Tottori has one of the lowest
populations, though in my opinion, that's still pretty impressive).
I
was journeying with one of my JET friends at the time specifically to
see the sand dunes, and when we arrived at the station, we were perusing
the information booth with the million fliers and brochures, when one
caught our eye. It was something like, "the curry walk" or "curry
street" or something like that. Basically, a guide to the top curry
restaurants in town and places that you absolutely had to try if you
were in town, as well as rankings and everything for which curry was the
most popular, sweetest, etc etc.
Seriously, at that
point I think I knew that Tottori was going to be a place I liked (as a
kid, Japanese curry and rice was my favorite food, and only sophomore
year where I consumed like, at least three packages of microwavable
curry a week changed that). Actually, if I think about it, if I were to
choose a place to live again in Japan, Tottori would be in my top 3
list, possibly even tied three ways for first with Kobe and Yokohama.
We
ended up trying this pear curry close to the sand dunes, along with
pear gelato. Oh my god. It was amazing. I was highly skeptical of
putting pears (and fruit in general) into curry, which usually is pretty
savory and not very sweet). Also though, by pears, really I mean
nashi
which we identify as "Asian pears" though my whole life I've always
considered them more apple than pear. They're that kind of yellow or
golden color, with the small white spots and the crunchy insides that
almost snap as you eat them? They're really crisp and delicious. Also,
now I totally understand why we call them Asian pears. Cause they're
actually called pears in Asia.
They had a TON of pear
flavored products in Tottori (as Japanese places with local flavors and
specialties are wont to do). Pear cider, pear wine, pear candy, pear
soda, pear curry, pear soft serve, pear... pears, and my absolute
favorite, pear shaved ice. Holy. Cow. Best flavor syrup for shaved ice
ever. It tasted exactly like pear, and not like some overly sweet syrup,
and was also light and refreshing to taste. Paired (or "pear'd." as
several of my friends would say -- also oh dear, they're rubbing off on
me) with the cool yet light and almost fluffy ice, it really made the
pear flavor come through more clearly than it had in the soft serve
version. Also, I love shaved ice.
The sand dunes
themselves were also pretty cool, while still being not quite what I had
expected. In my head, when I hear "sand dunes" I think something like,
"Sahara desert" or "
those amazing sand dunes in Journey" (Journey is a PS3 game with an amazing soundtrack and even more
amazing visuals
where you go on... a journey... through this desert like world. It's
really an amazing game that's not quite what you would think of as a
"game"). In reality, it is much much much smaller than that, but still
surprisingly energy consuming to walk across. They also had camels that
you could ride around on too (and, walking back up the hill on our way
back, we wished we had a camel). Running down it was surprisingly fun,
and somehow, walking around to make paths and tracks never got tiring,
nor was it only enjoyed by young people. They actually (they being the
sand dune volunteer group thing) had a dude stationed at the bottom of
the giant hill to make sure people didn't run graffiti into the side of
the hill, not that people didn't try. We actually watched him stop
several groups. One group was walking around in a circle. Another couple
was trying to make a heart. They almost got it too, but he made them
walk down. We spent a good portion of time scheming ways to distract the
watchman with one group while the other completed a picture behind his
back while he was busy scolding the first group. It would totally work
too.
The hills were also surprisingly steep. On the way
back down I ran back part of the way, and it was kind of exhilarating in
the "OH MY GOD I CAN'T STOP" kind of way, though running at an angle
helped.
On the other side of the giant hill though,
wasn't more sand dunes. It was the ocean. Or well, the Sea of Japan (so
technically not ocean, but large body of water). Tottori is actually
home to a really awesome looking geopark a couple miles down from the
Sand Dunes; regretfully, I ran out of time to go before we left and I
never had enough time to return. The dunes overlooked a small beach,
which you could run down to from the dunes at an abrupt and steep angle.
Running back up however, was much more difficult. We chose to not run
down to the water, choosing instead to just sit there and snack on our
conbini sandwiches (and the inevitable sand that got into them) and
enjoy the view. Mostly I think this is because neither of us wanted to
have to walk all the way back up hahaha. We were kinda short on time as
well. Buses, and all that.
Pretty much right next to the
sand dunes was the sand sculpture museum (kinda). Every time they opened
it, they invited people from around the world to create sand sculptures
around a certain theme, and after they were done, they'd build walls
around the sculptures. Every time. New walls. They also didn't look
quite as janky as some fairs in the US that come around once a year and
then close shop and come back a year later.
In 2012 (a whole year ago now), the theme was the UK. So there
were a bunch of kind of medieval sand sculptures, one with the Globe and
a play going on, the Tower of London, one of the Queen, one that was a
scene of rainy times and people walking around with umbrellas, another
of Galileo I think? And some other famous scientist, I don't remember.
They were really awesome sculptures. There was also one of King Arthur
and the sword in the stone... I think.
Oh wow, I just realized it's been almost a year since I've been
back in the US. Technically a few days short, but wow. I haven't gone
anywhere since I've been back, nor have I traveled nearly as much as
when I did over there. I have, however, gone home WAY more often than
when I was living in Japan. Ahem. Anyways.
Those things were all part of day one, and I want to say we went
somewhere else too... but honestly, I don't really remember. We stayed
at a business hotel though, I can remember that much. The day after, we
decided to split up. My friend went to see a castle I think and went to
the Detective Conan (a really popular manga/anime about this high
schooler detective genius who gets turned into a little boy but retains
his deductive genius) museum, while I, on the other hand, couldn't
resist the siren call of large bodies of water and the beach, and went
off to find a beach to go to, along with the other thing I couldn't
resist: an aquarium called 鳥取かにっこ館 (Tottori Kanikkokan).
This aquarium though, was by far the most specialized of them
all. It was a crab aquarium, and I think literally, they had over 70
species of crabs there. It was actually a pretty small aquarium, with
this really awesome touch zone for small children that had a ton of
those small crabs and like, hermit crabs and stuff there for people (ie:
kids) to touch. There was also a couple of small tanks with examples of
the wildlife found around Tottori (which honestly, is why I like to
visit so many aquariums, because they all showcase the local marine
life) as well of course, as the crabs that could be found in the area.
Apparently, the crab was supposed to be delicious.
Right next to the aquarium, they also had a bunch of seafood
restaurants as well as a fish/seafood market -- you know, just in case
you started to crave the things you were looking at. I mean, I think we
do that here in the states as well, but Japan takes these things to a
whole new level that people here I think, would be shocked at haha.
Fortunately for me, also next to the aquarium was this amazing
small beach that wasn't really that crowded, though regretfully, I had
not brought along a swim suit. Instead I walked along the beach where
the waves break and the sand is wet (since if you didn't you risked
burning the soles of your feet because the sand was so hot), walking in
and out of the water. It was super refreshing, and I really regretted
not bringing a suit. The further away you got though, the fewer people
were around until I was in a small, almost cove-like area by myself with
the closest people a good 200-300 feet away. I think I took a nap there
until it was finally time to go back and meet up with my friend so we
could return to Okayama, a trip that would take at least 3 hours, if
memory serves me correctly. Plus another hour+ to get back to my house
from Okayama.
But just being able to reconnect to the sea again was energizing
and invigorating. I felt completely recharged after that. :) I'm
definitely a water kind of person haha. Walking up and down the beach is
still one of my favorite activities. It's kind of therapeutic. No land
locked places for me... even being here at Stanford feels like it's too
far away from the ocean lol, though really, it's like a 40-1 hour drive
to the ocean and even less if I'm okay with settling for a smaller body
of water.
My first trip to Yonago on the other hand, could probably be
classified as a disaster, but also as awesome. I swear I thought I
posted about it, but I've been trying to look, and I can't find
anything. The night I arrived/the day after, a typhoon decided to BLOW
ON THROUGH THE CITY and it poured super hard, rendering it kind of
difficult and miserable to do any sort of site seeing around the city. I
did, however, the following day, take a day trip out to this place
called Mizuki Shigeru Road, a like... 1.5 hour trip from Yonago by train
I believe? I went because I heard there was a museum about 妖怪,
yokai,
which are like fantastic creatures like ghosts and goblins and
supernatural spirits in Japan. They're kind of fascinating to read
about, and there's a super popular comic in Japan called
Ge Ge Ge Kitaro
which is about, to the best of my knowledge, this kid (I think he's
also a "good" spirit... maybe... I honestly am not too sure) and his
interactions trying to help others and keep the bad spirits from being
too evil. I think. I watched one episode, but I kind of forgot what
happened. Minor details. But this city is the hometown of the author to
Ge Ge Ge (Mizuki Shigeru) so they decided to honor him by
commercializing the hell out of their city and installed statues all
along this road complete with stamps that you could get of each of the
yokai in the book (which you could stamp in this handy passport booklet
they sold, which then semi-obligated you to finish and collect all the
freaking stamps).
There was also a museum for the yokai
and a museum-- wait. Wait. I think I remember posting about this.
Because in addition to the yokai museum, there was also a museum that
had "living" in its title and I thought I was going to see a real
sunfish and SURPRISE it turned out it was a TAXIDERMY museum and
everything, including the giant sunfish, was STUFFED and I was horrified
and incredibly creeped out by it. I remember writing about that. I
remember the picture I put up of this one room that had at least a
hundred small tiny pufferfish that had been preserved. Hanging from the
ceiling. Some of them had googly-eyes glued on them. Creepy. As. Hell.
This picture:
 |
It looks upon museum patrons with murderous eyes
|
I can't find the post associated with it,
but google says I posted it? I
can't seem to find the post though. :x Actually, that was when I was
still writing my newsletter home, so it might have gotten put into that.
Alas, I take way too long to write about things. As proof, I sat down
to write this post an hour and a half ago, and I'm still typing. This is
actually getting kind of long huh. I should probably go to bed. This is
what happens when I have nothing to regulate my sleep schedule... ugh.
Oh, I also realized this now, but my astrological sign is
Cancer... the crab. Hahaha. Maybe that's why I felt so relaxed and
enjoyed myself so much there, both at the beach and at the crab
aquarium. Coincidence? I think not!
Anyways, long story
short (or the TL;DR version), Tottori was awesome, had a crab museum and
pear everything and a beach in addition to sand dunes, and I want to go
back some time.